Gear Guide · Water

Van Life Water Systems: Storage, Filtration, and Staying Hydrated on the Road

How to set up water storage, filtration, and a simple plumbing system for van life. What works, what leaks, and how to never run dry.

Water Is the Most Underplanned Part of Van Life

Most people planning their first van build spend weeks researching solar panels and months agonizing over insulation. Water gets five minutes of thought and a five-gallon jug from Home Depot. Then they hit the road and realize they are refilling that jug every two days, spilling it every time they drive on a dirt road, and doing dishes with a trickle from a bottle. Water is not glamorous, but getting it right changes your daily life more than almost anything else in the van.

This guide covers the full spectrum — from the simplest possible setup (a jug and a pump) to a proper plumbed system with a tank, a 12V pump, a filter, and a real sink. We will tell you what each approach costs, what it takes to install, and who each one is right for.

How Much Water Do You Actually Use

The average American uses 80–100 gallons of water per day at home. In a van, you use 1–3 gallons per day if you are being thoughtful. Here is the breakdown: drinking and cooking takes about 1 gallon per day per person. Dishes take 0.5–1 gallon per meal if you are efficient. Brushing teeth and basic hygiene takes about 0.25 gallons. Showering is the wildcard — a navy shower (wet, soap, rinse) takes about 1 gallon. A normal shower takes 8–15 gallons, which is why most van lifers shower at gyms, campgrounds, or truck stops.

For a solo van lifer, plan on 2–3 gallons per day for everything except showering. For two people, 4–5 gallons. A 15-gallon tank gives a solo traveler 5–7 days between fills. A 30-gallon tank gives a couple 6–7 days. These are the numbers to plan around.

Option 1: The Simple Jug Setup (Free to $50)

A 5-gallon water jug with a spigot, a small basin for dishes, and a bottle of dish soap. This is where almost everyone starts, and it works fine for weekend trips and early van life. The problems: five gallons is not much, the jug is awkward to fill and store, and it has no pressure — you are pouring, not pumping.

If you want to upgrade the jug setup without plumbing, add a 12V water pump and a simple faucet. You can mount the pump under a cabinet, run tubing to a faucet over a basin, and connect the other end to your jug. Total cost: $30–$60. It gives you real water pressure without any tank installation. This is the right setup for part-time van lifers and people who are not ready to commit to a permanent plumbing system.

Option 2: A Mounted Tank with a 12V Pump (The Standard Setup)

A 15–30 gallon polyethylene tank mounted under a bed platform or in a cabinet, connected to a 12V pump and a faucet. This is the setup most full-time van lifers end up with, and it is the right answer for anyone who is serious about van life.

Choosing a Tank

Polyethylene tanks are the standard. They are food-safe, lightweight, and available in almost any shape and size. The key is finding a tank that fits your specific van layout. Measure your available space carefully before ordering — a tank that is 2 inches too wide is useless. Common sizes for vans: 15 gallons (fits under most bed platforms), 20 gallons (requires a custom build), 30 gallons (for high-roof vans with more floor space).

Stainless steel tanks are more durable and easier to clean but significantly heavier and more expensive. They are worth it for long-term builds where you are not moving the tank. For most van lifers, polyethylene is the right choice.

The 12V Pump

The Shurflo 2088 is the pump most van lifers end up with. It is reliable, self-priming, and draws about 5A at 12V. It has a built-in pressure switch that turns it off when you close the faucet, which means it does not run continuously. The Shurflo 2088 costs about $50 and lasts for years with basic maintenance. The Flojet is the other common option — slightly quieter, slightly more expensive.

Fittings and Tubing

Use 1/2-inch food-grade polyethylene tubing and John Guest push-to-connect fittings. They are easy to work with, do not require tools, and do not leak if you seat them properly. Avoid barbed fittings with hose clamps — they work, but they are more likely to leak over time as the van flexes on rough roads.

Water Filtration: What You Actually Need

Most van lifers fill from campground spigots, RV dump stations, and municipal water sources. These are generally safe, but they can have sediment, chlorine taste, and occasionally bacteria. A two-stage filtration system handles all of this: a sediment pre-filter (5 micron) followed by a carbon block filter. Total cost: $30–$60 for the filters, plus a housing.

The Sawyer Squeeze is the right portable backup filter for van life. It filters down to 0.1 microns, weighs almost nothing, and costs about $30. Keep one in your van for situations where you are not sure about the water source — filling from a stream, a questionable spigot, or a friend's well.

If you are filling from natural sources regularly (streams, lakes, springs), add a UV purifier like the SteriPen to your kit. Filtration removes particles and some bacteria; UV kills viruses and the bacteria that slip through filters. Together, they handle almost anything you will encounter in North America.

Filling Your Tank on the Road

Finding water is easier than most people think. Campgrounds with hookups have water spigots. Many campgrounds without hookups have a central water station. RV dump stations almost always have a potable water fill. Truck stops have water. Many state and national parks have water at trailheads. In towns, most fire stations will fill your tank if you ask nicely.

The iOverlander app and the Campendium website both have community-sourced water fill locations. The Freecampsites app also marks water sources. Download these before you leave cell service.

In the desert Southwest, water is scarcer. Plan your route around water sources when you are boondocking in Arizona, Nevada, or New Mexico. A 30-gallon tank gives you more buffer, but you still need to know where the next fill is before you run out.

Greywater: What to Do With It

Greywater is the water that goes down your drain. In a van, you have two options: a greywater tank or a bucket. A greywater tank is cleaner and more convenient but adds weight and requires emptying. A bucket under the sink is simple and works fine if you are disciplined about emptying it.

Never dump greywater on the ground in a campground or on public land. It is illegal in most places and leaves a mess for the next person. Dump it in a proper greywater drain, a toilet, or an RV dump station. Use biodegradable soap — Dr. Bronner's is the standard — so that if you do need to dump on the ground in a genuine emergency, the impact is minimal.

Winterizing Your Water System

Water freezes at 32°F. If you are van lifing in winter, your water system needs to be protected. Options: insulate your tank and lines, run your heating system continuously, or drain the system when temperatures drop below freezing. Most van lifers who winter in cold climates use a combination of insulation and a small diesel heater that keeps the van above freezing overnight.

If you are caught in an unexpected freeze, drain the system completely. A frozen pump is a ruined pump. A frozen tank can crack. The cost of winterizing properly is a few hours of work. The cost of not winterizing is a new pump, new fittings, and potentially a cracked tank.

The Bottom Line

Start simple. A 5-gallon jug and a 12V pump will get you on the road. Upgrade to a mounted tank when you know your layout and how much water you actually use. Add filtration from day one — it is cheap insurance. And always know where your next fill is before you need it.

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